V.K. Sanju
When the water rises in the Periyar, it is time for the Aluva Thevar's Arattu. Far up to the north, on the banks of the Manasbal Lake bordered by the Himalayan mountain ranges, there is also a Shiva temple. The deity there has an Arattu (holy bath) always; the sanctum sanctorum and the idols are perpetually underwater. Only the apex of the pyramid-shaped roof can be seen outside. It is protected by a stone wall built around it. To look at it now, it appears like a temple that has sunk into a pond!
While standing and marveling with fellow travelers about whether this was built underwater or submerged later, lo and behold, a man removes his outer garments from in front of the sanctum sanctorum. Wearing Bermuda shorts and a short-sleeved t-shirt, in the split of a second, he dives straight into the water! He has plunged into the water that, looking from above, seemed only knee-deep. It is deeper than expected. He enters through the remaining door, which looks like a small opening of the submerged sanctum sanctorum.
For a few moments, all the visitors stood holding their breath. Suddenly he emerged from the water. He climbed ashore and spoke enthusiastically to the people gathered around.
His name is Abdul Rashid. He is the caretaker of this ancient temple. Swimming underwater, entering the submerged stone pavilion, and touching and paying respects to the small Shiva lingam inside is how he comes back ashore.
This surprise was on the way back from visiting the P-4 Basic Seed Farm of the Central Silk Board (CSB) located in Safapora, Jammu and Kashmir. A promise made by Dr. Rajesh Kumar, Head of CSB Manasbal, after welcoming us with sweet kulcha and milk-infused Kashmiri kahwa, was a shikara ride through the Manasbal Lake. That is apparently the best way to soak in the beauty of this entire region. When he mentioned that we could also see a temple submerged in water, we had not expected this much.
While eating Kashmiri Wazwan comprising Rogan Josh, Gushtaba, and Rista, Rajesh Kumar spoke endlessly about the seri-tourism highlights of Manasbal. After finishing food, we walked around, and he named all the medicinal plants there. From there, a short drive to the Mughal Garden called Jharokhabagh. The real lavender scent, apart from what is used in floor-cleaning lotions, was first recognized right from a plant he plucked, crushed, and placed in my palm.
Stepping down tier by tier and standing at the foot of the Mughal Garden, we board the shikara.
"You know how to swim, right...?"
I could not help but be shocked upon hearing the boatman's question. Manasbal Lake is the deepest freshwater lake in India with a maximum depth of 43 feet. It is not called freshwater for nothing. In shallower parts, the pebbles, moss, and greenery at the bottom can be clearly seen. A beautiful water body bordered by the Himalayas that have not yet begun to wear a mantle of snow. Half-bloomed lotuses and water birds resting on their leaves.
Even when stopped for photography on the floating platform in the middle of the lake, no signs of the temple are visible anywhere. The boatman that it can only be seen by landing ashore and walking a few metres.
Thus, the walk along the other bank of the Manasbal Lake led to the edge of the pond mentioned earlier. This ancient, rare temple is located right in front of the office of the Wullar Manasbal Development Authority (WMDA) in Ganderbal district. This place was renovated, protected with a retaining wall, and opened to visitors only in 2023.
"For years, this wondrous structure was half-submerged beneath the clear waters of the lake," says Abdul Rashid.
This ancient monument, carved out of massive gray rocks, is a brilliant symbol of Kashmiri traditional architecture. It is believed to be a temple built in the 9th century by Avantivarman, the founder of the Utpala dynasty in Kashmir.
"Centuries of history and mystery are submerged in this water," adds Ghulam Rasool, a local resident.
There are many who believe that the water in the pond around the temple has special sweetness and medicinal properties. Rajesh Kumar also filled a bottle with water from the natural spring here and gave it to us. Though reluctant, I could not help tasting it.
"This temple is a beautiful example of Hindu-Muslim brotherhood in Kashmir. A place that brings people together beyond the boundaries of religions," Rasool says proudly.
Amidst stories of fear and division, this ancient Shiva temple stands as a message of love and fraternity. Though there are no daily rituals or offerings, there is an Abdul Rashid here every day to affectionately touch and caress the small Shiva lingam that remains. Rashid is the heartbeat of true Kashmiriyat.
