Odisha has the second-largest weaver population in India, despite having a smaller population than many other states. The state's handloom variety is heavily influenced by its tribal communities, which rank third in India. Odisha's textiles are a representation of its cultural identity, with exceptional weaves that provide a unique identity. The vibrant threadwork, designs, and bright colors stand out in a crowd, make a clear fashion statement, and can be passed down through generations, creating a treasured heritage.
Among Odisha's famous handloom weaves are silk ikats made using the intricate "bandha" method. This process involves tie-dyeing the warp and weft threads to create the motif on the loom as it's woven. Common design elements include rudraksha beads, temple spires, animals, birds, fish, and seashells.
Tassar silk is produced in Sambalpur, Mayurbhanj, Nuapatna, and Berhampur and is known for its unmatched luster, shine, and texture. The Jagannath Temple idols are adorned with a special silk cloth from Nuapatna in the Cuttack district, embroidered with verses from the Gitagovinda. In addition to sarees, the skilled artisans are proficient in the centuries-old technique of silkworm breeding, producing silk ties, scarves, interior decor, and garment fabrics.
Handloom weaving has been a part of Odisha's heritage since 600 BC, according to art historians, and is associated with Lord Jagannath. The four major colors traditionally used in Odisha's textiles are white, black, yellow, and red, with green being added later. These colors symbolize the past, present, and future, according to the Vedas and the Gods. It is possible that the Ikat silk art originated from a replica of an even older temple construction.
The human forms carved on ancient temples reflect the draping of garments. The unique handlooms woven in cotton and silk feature a diverse range of styles, colors, patterns, and symbols, including plants, birds, animals, temples, and geometric shapes, which reflect the scenic beauty of Odisha.
Legend has it that the 12th-century poet Jayadeva presented Lord Jagannath with his "Gitagovinda" in the form of fabrics. He had them woven in his hometown of Kenduli, where the "Gitagovinda" verses were embroidered into the fabric. The King of Puri then ordered Gitagovinda materials from Nuapatna(Tigiria). In addition to Gitagovinda Khandua Patta (silk), cotton materials are also used in the daily ceremonies of the deities.