V.K. Sanju
Just 33 kilometers away from the bustling capital of Bhopal lies Khari, a village in the Sehore district. A cultural mosaic where Gond, Bhil, Bhilala tribes and other communities live in harmony, Khari opens up one of the most heartwarming chapters on Madhya Pradesh's rural tourism map.
Walking past its tiled-roof mud houses, one feels that time here moves to a different rhythm. Khari's surroundings are a package of delights: the nearby Kesla Dam for quiet picnics, the allure of the prehistoric Bhimbetka rock shelters, and the tranquil majesty of the Sanchi Stupa just a short drive away. Yet, the true charm of this village lies not in external sightseeing spots, but in its profound simplicity.
As part of the Responsible Tourism Mission by the Madhya Pradesh Tourism Board, around twenty homestays have sprung up right beside the villagers' traditional homes. Every homestay has a story of its own, populated by local farmers and potters. When visitors arrive, the entire village pauses its daily chores to open their doors and share their stories.
The Leading Ladies of the Village
Passing under the welcome board bearing the village's name, a striking sight greets the traveler: a sprawling, shady tree under which a handful of villagers sit in a circle like a traditional Gram Sabha. Right in the center, sitting tall and poised on a concrete structure, a woman holds court, speaking with confidence while mostly men surround her. That single frame captures the miniature reality of Khari.
The most striking sight in Khari is not its decorated houses, tranquil ambiance, or the silent, clear streams- it is the strength of its women. The entire management of the homestays rests in their capable hands. While the men of the household busy themselves with farming and other chores, it is the women who welcome guests, prepare traditional meals, and recount the stories of the village with pride.
An evening in Khari is complete with Bundeli folk dances, Bhajan Mandali performances, and the rustic flavors of local cuisine. Every visitor is greeted in the traditional style of the Khari Village Paryatan Samiti, welcomed with tilak and flowers.
Sabarvani in the Shade of Satpura
Far away from Khari, hidden within the buffer zone of the Satpura National Park in the Tamia tehsil of Chhindwara district, lies another village- Sabarvani. Spanning less than 2,000 hectares, it is a small Gond tribal hamlet with a tiny population of just 712 people. Since 2019, it has transformed into a thriving tourism hub, opening its doors to travelers from across India and abroad.
Walking through the village, bullock cart rides, fishing, birdwatching, cycling, and participating in agricultural activities- Sabarvani offers visitors not just sights, but deep experiences. Staying in traditional homestays allows travelers to experience the absolute tranquility of rural life firsthand.
On September 27, 2024, coinciding with World Tourism Day, the Ministry of Tourism, Government of India, declared Sabarvani the Best Tourism Village in the Responsible Tourism category at a ceremony in New Delhi. This recognition came through the Ministry's 'Best Tourism Villages' competition, which aims to promote social values and lifestyles while safeguarding cultural and natural assets.
The Madhya Pradesh Tourism Board hopes that this recognition - combining community-led homestays, sustainable practices, and cultural preservation - will propel Sabarvani onto the global tourism map.
Two Villages, One Philosophy
Babli Gaur, who runs the Twins Killa View Homestay, proudly spoke about her relative who studied hotel management abroad and returned to help uplift the local homestays. The homestay's name, 'Twins,' was chosen in honor of the family's twin daughters.
Nodal Officer Priyanka Sinha noted that five percent of the rental income generated from homestays goes toward government developmental schemes, while the remaining 95 percent stays directly with the operators. Beyond rent, additional revenue flows in through allied businesses like the sale of local handicrafts and produce.
Although Khari and Sabarvani lie 200 kilometers apart, they are rooted in the exact same philosophy: tourism is not merely about sightseeing, but a powerful instrument for empowering communities. The arrival of travelers brings steady income to village women, opens fresh markets for local artisans, and earns indigenous traditions validation from a new generation.
Just a short escape from the rush of Bhopal, these two villages await- reminding us that India's soul thrives where the Wi-Fi signal fades, and echoing through their daily heartbeat that Madhya Pradesh is truly the 'Heart of Incredible India'.